I've got a Spektrum DX2.0. I plan on doing this to a Spektrum DX2 also.
I'm tired of throwing out AA batteries cause of my Tx.
I'm going to swap to LiPo. There's an on-screen readout for the voltage; and I hear there's a 9.0V "low batt" warning built in as well.
It'd be nice to have a low voltage alarm or something at 9.4V or so incase I'm not paying attention too.
Any thoughts on the best way to accomodate it?
I need to connect to the power leads of the Tx. Should I solder to the battery tabs; or should I try to get to the wires directly? I even thought about trying to find a spade connector to fit onto the ends of the tabs to leave them un-ravaged.
I've got a little dremel work ahead of me to clear the cavity for it, but we'll see.
Anyone else already done this or looking towards doing the same?
I figured anything I learn on the first one is going to be applied to the 2nd one. But why think so small, maybe someone else out there wants a lighter and longer-lasting DX2 or 3.
I'm interested to see how/if this will work. Best of luck and keep us posted. Sorry I have no info for ya on this...
Well Matt. So far, it looks like it worked out GREAT.
I've completed the changes on both Transmitters.
The DX2.0 was easier, but it was no major feat in either case.
Both controllers now have the capability to be powered by a 3s LiPo; OR their 8 cell AA pack. I was able to add a dongle with a deans connector without interfering with the stock components.
In the case of the DX2, I have to use a strip of foam to hold the AA's in place; to keep them from moving around too much. The opening is smaller, and the LiPo battery is harder to remove/replace because of it.I've also got alot of extra wire now, and I'm thinking of shortening the battery leads to remove the clutter.
I'll post up some pics once I have them downloaded and sorted out.
No doubt, post the pictures. This may be something others (including me) may look into in the near future. We'll call it the "Ron Mod" for Spektrum.
These fins will need to be cut back to make room for the LiPo pack I used: Zippy 1500 20C 3S (3.5cm x 10.5cm x 1.8cm)
I cut a few notches down one side to make room for the deans plug to nestle into so I could also fit a 8AA battery pack in if necessary.
Unfortunately, the day I did the solder job, I forgot my "good" camera phone at home, so I had to use a blackberry camera. Sorry.
I used wire that I stripped from a Cat5 (standard ethernet) cable. And it fit JUST RIGHT into some holes that were already there in the PCB. I was able to push them through, bend the leads over, and solder them into place. These holes were perfectly located so that I could bend the wire over, and hit the same location the OTHER power leads solder to. Same spot exactly.
Very simple, very clean. It's a little tight there, I wish you could see it in the photos.I'll load another one some day when I take it apart again.
I shrink wrapped the deans plug w/1 tube on each solder point. Then 2 more tubes ontop of that, because I figured that's where I'd likely be handling it.
I was proud, and I could do it to yours for a small fee.
Cool looking Mod so far. Keep us posted on how everything works out.
And here's the naked DX2:
It's a bit "weird" in that it uses a "large plate" instead of wire... for some reason. That big metal plate in the handle is soldered to the negative battery lead on one end, and to the main PCB on the other end.
Dang, never opened one of those up, that is weird how they have that done.
Rather than try to run wires way up there, I taped into the power wires right where the AA's connect.
There was already a wire-port in place, so I ran the wires around the side and out through there.
Feel free to ask me at the next few races and I'll be more than happy to open the battery compartment and let you see how things worked out. Like I said; pretty proud of the modification.
Seems to have added functionality with no loss of existing capability.
looks fun
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